The image shows a set of fingernail extensions in Thailand. They are eight bronze-colored metal fingernail extensions. Each one of them has a circular band that is worn around the finger with the pointed extensions tapering upwards. The extensions have decorative hole punches outlining both sides and two metal cut-outs dangling from their backs. The cut-outs are arrow-shaped, with three diamonds attached to each arrow. There are eight extensions in the set.
These fingernail extensions are worn in various traditional Thai dances including the fingernail dance called Fawn Lep. The fingernail extensions are six-inch-long brass fingernails and are intended to accentuate dramatic hand and finger gesture of each dancer.
Various dance styles have different adaptations of nail extensions. For example, some extensions feature sweeping curves resembling talons, while others have a relatively straight profile with upturned ends. Extensions can be crafted from materials like gold or stainless steel, and occasionally adorned with rattan, gems, or beads. These sets typically consist of eight pieces, excluding the thumbs, and are custom-made by skilled craftsmen to ensure a perfect fit for the wearer. The production process takes approximately one week to complete.
Dancers usually receive their first set of nail extensions when they are around eight to ten years old, and throughout their dancing career, they are expected to replace them multiple times. Given the rapid and fluid hand gestures involved in the dances, it is crucial that the extensions fit precisely. As part of the elaborate costume preparation, dancers traditionally moisten their fingers with saliva before wearing the extensions, using the combination of saliva and suction to help keep the nails securely in place.
Fawn Lep, meaning Fingernail Dance, is a northern Thai dance style originating from Chiang Mai. Fawn Lep is one of the five Fawn Thai dance styles: Fawn Tian (candle dance), Fawn Lep (fingernail dance), Fawn Ngiew (scarf dance), Fawn Marn Gumm Ber (butterfly dance), and Fawn Marn Mong Kol (happy dance).
Each dance is accompanied by a unique ensemble of traditional Thai musical instruments, each with its own distinctive rhythm and movements. The costumes worn in Thai dance are vibrant, stylized, and vary depending on the region. While the choreography emphasizes uniformity and precise footwork, performances are primarily valued for their artistic quality rather than for conveying specific meanings or messages.
In the Fingernail Dance, typically performed by five pairs of dancers, each dancer wears six-inch-long brass fingernails. While the dance movements may differ across provinces, the performers' positions on the stage are more fluid, with robust arm and head movements. The elongated fingernails highlight the graceful hand gestures characteristic of Thai dance, and some pairs may even dance from a kneeling position at the front of the stage. Costume colors exhibit more diversity, varying according to the region. Dancers wear their hair in a high bun with a yellow jasmine flower tiara.
The orchestra accompanying the Fawn Lep dances typically consists of five to seven musicians playing traditional Thai instruments. The orchestra is seated in the traditional lotus position, with the Ranad player, a long instrument similar to a xylophone, positioned in the center and the others surrounding him. The musicians are dressed in the simple attire and fabrics associated with their respective provinces, positioned either at the rear or on the side of the dancers on the stage.
Watch this video to see a performance of Fawn Lep from a Thai festival in the United Kingdom.
Several countries in Southeast Asia have traditional dance performance similar to Thai Fawn Lep fingernail dance.
Pangalay, also known as Daling-Daling or Mengalai in Sabah, is a traditional dance performed by the Tausūg people of the Sulu Archipelago and the eastern coast Bajau of Sabah. It is often referred to as the "fingernail" dance. This dance shares similarities with classical Balinese and Thai dances, making it one of the most distinctly Asian dances from the southern Philippines. It requires dancers to have dexterity and flexibility in their shoulders, elbows, and wrists, which closely resemble the movements of kontaw silat, a martial art. Pangalay is primarily performed during weddings and other festive occasions. The male counterpart of Pangalay is called Pangasik, featuring more martial movements. When both male and female dancers perform together, it is referred to as Pangiluk.
The concept of Pangalay is rooted in the pre-Islamic and Buddhist notion of male and female celestial angels, known as Vidhyadhari in Sanskrit and Biddadari in Tausug, a language spoken in parks of the Philippines and Malaysia. Similar characters can be found in other Southeast Asian dances. The neighboring Samal and Bajau peoples in the Philippines refer to this dance style as Umaral or Igal, and they sometimes use bamboo castanets as substitutes for long fingernails.
Tanggai dance in Indonesia is another form of fingernail dance. The Tanggai dance symbolizes the hospitality and respect extended to invited guests. It conveys a message of welcome and showcases the deep reverence that the people of Palembang hold for their guests. During the dance, one of the dancers presents a betel nut to the chosen guest of honor. This act of offering sekapur betel signifies that the guest has been warmly received by the people of Palembang.
The dance gets its name from the unique adornment worn by all the dancers, known as Tanggai. The Tanggai is a copper nail decoration that is attached to each finger, except the thumb. This decorative ladder enhances the elegance of the dancers' fingers, contributing to the graceful movements performed during the dance.
