Ghaghra Skirt: Explore Collections: Windows to the World: Digital Artifacts for Global Educators: Indiana University Bloomington

Ghaghra Skirt

This is a fragment of a ghaghra skirt from the Kutch district- the largest district in India- in the Gujarat state in western India. The smaller band on the left is the bottom of the skirt, and the larger field of fabric makes up the top, which is tied around the woman's waist. Although India is most often associated with sari robes, women from the 16th-19th century mostly wore ghaghra skirts like this one, along with blouses and a veil. Much of the clothing in India is embroidered for ornamentation. Seamstresses could add mirrors, sequins, and pearls to embellish clothes for special occasions, like weddings and festivals. The pattern motifs often relate to daily lifestyles, animals, and birds. This ghaghra uses peacocks and floral motifs along the border fabric.

Ornamentation was also a form of non-verbal communication. An embroidered dress might signify its region of origin, or the identity of its maker or wearer. For example, not only does this skirt show that it’s from Kutch, but it also uses the aari type of embroidery, done by cobblers with an intricate chain stitch patterned on designs of the Mughals. Rabari type embroidery (belonging to the Rabari people) adds mirrors in a variety of shapes and patterns. The Mutava style is embroidered by a small, culturally unique group of Muslim herders who inhabit Banni, the desert grassland of northern Kutch. In this way, embroidery served as a unique identifier for highly specific ethnic and tribal groups.

Rajasthani-style ghaghra choli. Photo courtesy Pinterest.

Traditionally, local women have devoted their time to the craft of embroidery both to suit their needs for clothes and to earn a living. However, this skirt was made by a trained crew of primarily male craftsmen. Such an expert garment was restricted to the wealthy. Aristocrats and nobles wore these types of drawstring skirts at court, and they were frequently included in a bride's dowry. This skirt embodies a culture of opulence, cultural identity, and court status in one of India’s largest regions.

Ghaghra Skirt Activity Guide

Teacher-Made Ghaghra Skirt Lesson Plan- Geography and History of the World

Resources

Resource 1

Indian Embroidery- Victoria and Albert Museum

This coat depicts the same embroidery style made by the Mochi community of Gujarat and how it was worn by nobles and aristocrats. Members of India's Mughal court (early 16th-mid 19th century) sought it out because it was so exquisite. Male Gujarati Mochi embroiderers who created textiles for royal courts in India as well as for export to the West performed this sort of chain-stitch handiwork. Similar designs can be found on the borders of manuscripts ordered under the rule of the Mughal emperor Jahangir (1569-1627), whose diary entries reveal his intense passion for nature and interest in animal life. Portraits of uncommon and exotic creatures as well as flowers were commissioned by the courts of Jahangir and Shah Jahan (1592–1666), some of which are influenced by European volumes of botanical species, or herbs.

Resource 2

Sparkling Embroideries of Kutch- Google Arts and Culture

This website was established with the help of Dastkari Haat Samiti, a national organization on crafts. It shows the preservation of rich culture of Kutch embroidery and textile, process of embroidery production, and female labor in embroidery.

Resource 3

Dress and Identity- YouTube

This video from Roots Singapore, a branch of the Singapore National Heritage Board, explains the interactions between Southeast Asia and South Asia, particularly India. It talks about identity and clothing, and how a particular clothing can show someone’s multiple identities.

Resource 4

Rann of Kutch- YouTube

While Kutch is well-known for its embroidery, it's also famous for another reason: Kutch the home of the world’s biggest white desert. This video explains the historical formation of the Rann desert, and how it impacts life in the region.

Ghaghra Skirt

Resource 1

Resource 2

Resource 3

Resource 4

Windows to the World: Digital Artifacts for Global Educators resources and social media channels