Huipil


This velvet blouse, known in Spanish as a huipil or in Zapotec as a bidaani, is a traditional style of shirt from a Zapotec community in Oaxaca, Mexico. Zapotec people are an Indigenous people who have lived in the Oaxaca region since the 6th century BC. They have a total population between 400,000-650,000 people, and approximately 490,000 people (12% of the state of Oaxaca) speak the Zapotec language. Culturally and geographically, Zapotec people divide themselves into four main regions: the Central Valleys, Sierra Norte, Sierra Sur, and the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. Colonization in Mexico often caused Zapotec communities to become isolated from each other, especially across these geographic zones, so the four regions developed distinct linguistic and cultural differences.

Huipil Bordado (Embroidered Shirt). Isthmus Zapotec, Mexico, early 1990s. Cotton silk (velvet) with embroidery. IU Museum of Anthropology and Archeology, Accn #: 2019-01-0054. This huipil bordado was made in the early 1990s as a copy of an old style; it was owned by Dr. Anya Peterson Royce's cousin and was given to Dr. Peterson Royce by her cousin’s mother after her cousin passed away at an early age.
Huipil Bordado (Embroidered Shirt). Isthmus Zapotec, Mexico, early 1990s. Cotton silk (velvet) with embroidery. IU Museum of Anthropology and Archeology, Accn #: 2019-01-0054. This huipil bordado was made in the early 1990s as a copy of an old style; it was owned by Dr. Anya Peterson Royce's cousin and was given to Dr. Peterson Royce by her cousin’s mother after her cousin passed away at an early age.




Resources

Resource 1

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The Beautiful Stories of 8 of Oaxaca's Traditional Outfits- Vogue

Guelaguetza Costumes- Gobierno de Mexico 

Guelaguetza celebrates the diversity of cultures in Oaxaca, and that includes the various traditional outfits from the region. Here, Vogue and the Mexican government website discuss some of the styles worn at the festival. 

Resource 2

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Women's Blouse or Huipil- Brooklyn Museum

The depicted textile is a Maya woman's ceremonial blouse (huipil) originating from Chichicastenango, El Quiche, Guatemala, dating back to the 1930s or 1940s. The intricate design, crafted from cotton and silk, features multicolored geometric patterns, including a double-headed eagle motif on the central panel. The neck opening showcases silk appliqués resembling radiating points representing the sun, while four rosettes symbolize the cardinal directions. Such huipils hold cosmological significance in Maya culture, aligning the wearer with the universe's center. This textile, part of the Arts of the Americas collection, was donated to the Brooklyn Museum in memory of Elizabeth Ege Freudenheim. 

Resource 3

Frida Kahlo and Cultural Appropriation- OPB 

Traditional Mexican Dress- Victoria and Albert Museum 

Frida Kahlo was known for her use of Indigenous-inspired clothing and style. However, Frida was only one part of a much larger movement to reconceptualize Mexican national identities in the early to mid 20th century. These articles from OPB and the Victoria and Albert Museum discuss how Kahlo interacted with Indigenous Mexican cultures in her art, and how her art tied into the broader social and political movements of the time.  

Resource 4

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Image reads in Spanish "We are daughters of the grandmothers who will not die, they live in the universe of our weavings." 

The Other Story of Huipiles- Mayamam Weavers 

The blog post discusses the cultural and social significance of huipils, traditional blouses worn by Maya women in Guatemala. It highlights two key struggles related to huipils: the protection of traditional designs from appropriation and the fair compensation for weavers. AFEDES, a women weavers' group, is working to secure intellectual property rights for their designs and raise awareness about the value of huipils. Additionally, the article addresses the ethical concerns surrounding the repurposing of huipils into various products, emphasizing that the practice can exploit impoverished weavers. The struggle aims to educate consumers about the complexities of recycled huipils and their impact on indigenous artisans.